10 miles – PCT mile 2117.3 to 2110 + 3.5 mile hike out
Well, sometimes shit happens. I woke up on day 3 and the IT band on my left hip was super sore. This is the other first I was talking about earlier. I’ve never had that pain whilst hiking before. Pain is of course inevitable, but this seemed different. Here’s the video I made when I got back to Portland. Afterwards will be photos from Day 3 of my hike.
The day began with a big climb and my first Mt Hood view!
Mt Hood Wilderness mapTrail – look at the edges of the trail and you can see the holes from all the hiking poles that most hikers walk with
I descended down another 1000 feet to Muddy Creek and crossed on a log. Right after this was when I started to realize my hip was getting worse.
The trail to Ramona Falls was slightly uphill, but my hip made it feel much steeper. It started to become apparent that I may need to bail out. Ramona Falls was beautiful though.
There were plenty of day hikers around. I scoped out who I thought might be a good mark to “yogi” a ride from (thru hiker term) and found Mike and his dog Rogue. He was with another couple as well and I could tell they were good people. The art of yogi-ing a ride is subtle. I started by asking how far it was back to the parking lot and if there was any cell signal there for me to call an Uber. I then explained my predicament and Mike volunteered to take me back to Portland, as his drive brought him near the airport anyway. Success!
Thanks Mike!and his pup Rogue!Sadly, parking lot would be my destination
I was about 11 miles short of my intended stopping point of Timberline Lodge on Mt. Hood, but I’ll come back another year. I think I may have undertrained a bit for this trip, compared to my hikes in the previous years and perhaps I also went too fast out of the gate. Regardless, it was a great hike and I got to check some more miles off my ultimate goal of finishing the entire PCT over the coming decades.
I woke up in the fog and cold. I had expected lows in the 50s, but it was certainly in the 40s at least. I’ve got my sleep system down though, so I was nice and toasty in my tent and got a bit of a later start, around 9:30am.
I got to the spot where I was originally going to camp (before deciding to pivot to Wahtum Lake) and there were some beautiful views.
Most of today would be overcast and foggy. No mountain views, but pretty hiking and some amazing trail magic, both human and nature-made.
The trail provides is a phrase you often hear out there. It is amazingly true.
Spy and LP to the rescueFoggy trailMt Hood in clouds
One thing I learned was that Pikas actually live down at this altitude. I thought they were always over 10,000 feet, but I saw and heard several among the rocks down here around 6,000 feet.
Trail through scree – Pikas abound
High voltage power lines are always crazy to me on trail.
I again pushed a little further than I was planning on, but it was mostly downhill, so I ended at Lolo Pass about 16 miles in.
14 miles – PCT mile 2150 – 2133.4 (using Eagle Creek alternate)
Here’s an overview of my full journey, minus the last day. I brought the wrong cord to charge my Garmin InReach, which is my sattelite beacon that tracks my progress, so the last day wasn’t tracked. I actually ended at the Sandy River and Ramona Falls, for a total of just about 40 miles.
I woke up around 7am, packed up, said my goodbyes, and headed towards the Bridge of the Gods. Instead of heading up the actual PCT there, I continued west under the bridge on the historic Columbia River Highway State Trail. This would follow the highway to the Eagle Creek Trail Head, where I would start heading into the woods.
Mural under the Bridge of the Gods
At the trail head there is a salmon hatchery that I found to be pretty cool.
I started up the trail and soon came to the first of several waterfalls. This is Punchbowl Falls.
More falls – didn’t know the name of this one.
The big highlight of this trail is Tunnel Falls. This was spectacular and is the main reason hikers do this alternate instead of the actual PCT.
After Tunnel Falls, I continued on and found a place to eat lunch and soak my feet in the creek.
Cliffside trailBeautiful
It was still early in the day, so I decided to try and go a little further than planned to get a jump on the miles. This ended up being harder than anticipated.
I also remembered I had an app called Dual Gram that allows you to record from both sides of the phone, which is kinda cool.
As I continued up, I looked at the topo map and realized the trail I was originally going to take to meet up with the PCT basically went straight up the mountain with no switchbacks. There was also a question of water once I reached the top. There was another option, which I explain in this video.
This was a good decision in the end. The trail was much nicer and I got to end the day at a lake, which afforded me a brief (but cold) swim. I was also chafing really bad on my thighs, which was the first time in my hiking career that had happened. Luckily, I travel with Aquaphor, which would help me heal up quickly. There would be some other firsts on this trip as well, which I will expound upon later.
I got into camp with about an hour to spare before the sun went down and I was beat. I had my own spot on the edge of the lake and fell asleep quickly.
As I stepped off the train from the Portland airport, I immediately spied one of my people. You can spot the hiker trash a mile away. The grit and grime of their clothes, the backpacks, the PCT emblem clipped to their back if they are thru-hiking; the hiker uniform is unique.
The weather was typical PNW: chilly, foggy, and humid, with the smell of pines in the air. I joined my fellow hikers on the bus heading to the east on Hwy 84 along the Columbia River. I sat next to a hiker named Whiskey, who had gotten hurt in the Sierra and was just following his still-hiking buddies around at trail towns. When we got off in Cascade Locks 45 minutes later, he astutely asked, “well, now what?”. None of us really knew where to go, but we quickly found our way to the campground and park at Thunder Island.
I signed up to volunteer for the weekend, so I got to camp for free on Friday and Saturday nights. My volunteer role was to help out with running the sound, which basically consisted of turning the music down whenever someone needed to make an announcement on the microphone about the various events and gear demos throughout the day. The rest of the time I got to wander around and hang out with hikers and generally have a good time.
After setting up camp, I walked around the small town of Cascade Locks to get the lay of the land. The historic and iconic Bridge of the Gods spans the Columbia River here and is where the trail crosses from Oregon into Washington.
Cascade Locks is tiny and walkable and full of hikers.
Bridge of the Gods toll booth – hikers walk across here, along with traffic
Overnight on Friday it rained and we all woke up a bit soggy, but ready for another full day of gear, friends, and fun.
At the end of the day there was a raffle where thousands of dollars of gear were given away. I didn’t get any, but it worked out because I wouldn’t have had anywhere to keep it anyway, since I was hitting the trail the next morning.
RaffleSome of my internet hiking friends – The Codgers
The weather on Saturday night was much better and we all settled in for a nice sunset and the end of a great weekend. I hit the trail the next morning.
I’m at the Austin airport very early this morning, waiting to board my flight to Portland.
Breakfast
I was able to fit all of my gear (barely) into my Zpacks flight case, so my whole system is self-contained and I don’t have to worry about stashing a suitcase somewhere while I hike.
Everything fit!
It does feel odd not having a carry on, other than my GG fanny pack, another newer piece of gear that is quickly becoming a favorite.
I spent the last two days going over gear, food, and logistics.
Obligatory gear layout shotFood from home – the rest I will buy in Oregon
I also permethrin’d my clothes, as it is most certainly mosquito season where I’m going. I hang them in the garage and spray them and let them dry for a few hours.
Once I get to Portland, I’m taking a bus from the airport east along the Columbia River to Cascade Locks. This is where PCT Days is held and I’ll camp here for two nights before starting my hike on Sunday morning.
It’s supposed to rain a lot this weekend, but Sunday the sun comes out. Perfect timing, I hope. Let’s do it!
10.2 miles – Lake Georgetown – Cedar Breaks Trail Head
I went out to one of my favorite training spots near Austin, the loop around Lake Georgetown, early on Saturday morning. I’ve done a few 5 mile hikes with full pack earlier this summer, but am planning on a 10+ miler for the remaining 3 weekends before my hike. This isn’t the most vigorous training schedule, but I’m hoping it should be enough. I’m also getting my peloton rides in and core and other strength training as well.
We’ve had a relatively cool summer so far, due mainly to the flooding over the July 4th weekend and the rains in the weeks after. There were many deaths and people displaced from those floods. The lakes are also mostly full, something that hasn’t happened in many years. As a result, the trail was also very overgrown for July and had plenty of places where I had to contort and squeeze through, while getting scratched up by branches and cacti in the process.
I went just over 10 miles from Cedar Breaks trail head to just past the Cedar Hollow campground, took a break to eat and hydrate, then doubled back. The heat was fine until around 11am, as usual, and the last mile I really started to feel it. Even with a high of only 92, it definitely felt hotter and I was able to break out my umbrella (one of my favorite pieces of gear) to get some shade as I hiked.
And as always, the longhorns were out and about and had even added a donkey to the group since I was last out here.
I feel the trail calling and this year I’ve decided to go to Cascade Locks on the Oregon-Washington border for PCT Days, which is an annual celebration of the trail in August. It is timed so a lot of NoBo hikers that have made it that far will be coming through on their hikes. There are all kinds of gear companies and hiking associations that set up booths and it’s just a good time for thru hikers. This year it is set for August 15-17 and I’m set up for a volunteer shift helping run sound on one of the stages, harkening back to my days in the music industry.
This year, I was initially going to try and hike some of the PCT going north in the Sierra from Kennedy Meadows South up to either Mammoth Lakes or Yosemite with Stix, but we couldn’t quite get it coordinated. I looked at my options and I’ve always wanted to see what PCT Days is like. Then I can hike south from Cascade Locks and go to the Mt Hood area for a few days and get some more miles completed. I’m planning on 6 days and around 70-75 miles or so.
The first part of this hike is actually an alternate trail that almost every hiker takes, the Eagle Creek Alternate, because it takes you through some amazing waterfalls in a gorgeous canyon, most notably Tunnel Falls.
I also will get to go to the Timberline Lodge on Mt Hood, which is famous for being the exterior of the hotel in The Shining. Should be a fun hike and I’m sure I’ll meet some really interesting people at PCT Days.
I came across this article via the PCT Trail Dirt Newsletter, originally published in the digital version of Backpacker Magazine (parent company Outside+) a few weeks ago and wanted to share. It wouldn’t let me link directly, as it is a paid subscription service, so I had to go the copy and paste route. The Outside+ articles are by and large really good and I recommend subscribing if you are an outdoor enthusiast of any kind.
Meadow Ed was a PCT legend and this was a lovely tribute from Barney Mann, another PCT legend in his own right:
“Meadow Ed” Wasn’t Just a Trail Angel—He Was a Pacific Crest Trail Hero.
A friend to the thousands of hikers he fed, the late Ed Faubert helped Cheryl Strayed during the journey she chronicled in “Wild,” and earned a place in PCT history along the way.
That’s distracting, thought Cheryl Strayed, the author of Wild. She was giving a talk at Skylight Books in Los Angeles when a balding, round-bellied man began bouncing up and down in an attempt to get her attention.
“Sir, can I help you?” Strayed asked. The man clutched a shiny red handle with a sharp-toothed blade. “Cheryl,” he said, “it’s me, Ed. Here’s the saw you left behind at Kennedy Meadows.”
Ed Faubert and that saw were the stars in Strayed’s “pack shakedown” in the movie Wild. In that scene, Ed, played by Cliff DeYoung, sorts through the contents of Strayed’s pack, pulling out questionable items like deodorant, an entire roll of condoms, and that toothy tool. It’s the movie’s funniest moment. What the humor of it overshadows is that Faubert likely saved Strayed’s hike.
In an interview, Strayed concurred: “I’d reached Kennedy Meadows after that first 100 miles and thought, ‘I’m an idiot. I should probably quit.’ Ed and the others gave me this boost to hike on.”
Roger Carpenter—”Greg” in the movie—was there with Strayed. Now a hardened Triple Crowner who goes by the trail name “Greg from Wild,” he recalls unequivocally that “Ed, his encampment, and that small group of hikers he’d gathered gave Cheryl the confidence that she belonged on the trail.”
It all began in 1995. As a 50th birthday present to himself, Faubert drove to Kennedy Meadows in the southern Sierra Nevada. Riding shotgun in his Bronco was nephew Andre Faubert. My uncle “wanted to be in a place he loved, not moping at home in Los Angeles,” Andre says today.
The same day they arrived, seven tired, bedraggled PCT thru-hikers wandered into their campsite. It was second nature for Faubert, an itinerant chef and experienced backpacker, to feed those hungry souls. Faubert dished out heaping plates together with dollops of trail wisdom. When they left, Faubert’s cooler lay bare, and he drove four hours back to Los Angeles to restock. Now a budding trail angel, he soon ministered to a second batch of six backpackers that included Cheryl Strayed and Roger Carpenter.
In 1996 Faubert came back, and the dozen hikers became fifty. Faubert set up first in Kennedy Meadows, then Reds Meadows, then Tuolumne Meadows. “When will we see you again, Ed?” one hiker asked. Faubert responded, “Where’s the next meadow?” With that, Faubert became “Meadow Ed.”
Faubert was raised in Manchaug, Massachusetts, the youngest of five boys, shoe-horned into a mill town company-built home. His mom Mildred worked in the mill and dad William in construction. When he was only 8, his father died in a construction accident. He never finished high school but hitchhiked west and entered Glendale College. Faubert was voted class president and earned an English degree, but he was more interested in cooking for others. He became a self-made chef, and bounced like a pinball between local diners and line cook positions at distant Yosemite and Glacier National Parks. Soon, he fell in love with the Sierra, polishing his backpacking skills against a backdrop of glacier-polished granite.
Husky even in college, Faubert had a fifty-year-old’s receding hairline when he was in his twenties. On his tiptoes he stood five-foot-eight, and with that barrel chest you would expect a basso-profundo to emerge. But Faubert spoke in a surprisingly elfin, near-falsetto voice.
Ed Faubert and hiker Roger Carpenter at Kennedy Meadows, June, 1995. Photo Courtesy Roger Carpenter
As the number of hikers he fed increased, Faubert wasn’t daunted. Instead, he expanded his work to become a PCT “Kickoff” leader. That event took place twenty miles north of the PCT southern terminus and at the time was the equivalent of Appalachian Trail Days in Damascus, Virginia. Meadow Ed’s “water report” talk routinely had standing-room-only crowds. Hikers hung on every word. The notes they took may have saved lives.
To Faubert, the hikers he fed and advised weren’t just souls passing by. They were his lifelong friends. In his later years, he lived rent-free in the basement apartment of Darlene Finocchiaro, a college friend of 50 years. I visited him a few months before he died; prominently hung on one wall was a photo collage titled “Some of my Best Friends,” featuring scores of PCT hikers.
One of those friends was Jackie McDonnell, author of the Yogi’s PCT Handbook and a Pacific Crest Trail legend in her own right. McDonnell, who would go on to become the first female Double Triple Crowner, met Faubert in 2001 on her first PCT thru-hike. In that low snow year, McDonnell recalled that she’d asked about the upcoming Sierra Nevada. Faubert replied, “At 10,000 feet you’ll hit mosquitos and at 11,000 feet you’ll hit snow.” McDonnell still marvels: “Guess what happened? At 10,000 feet a wall of mosquitos and at 11,000 feet snow. This old guy at the campground. How did he know?”
Hikers in 1995 turn the tables and take Ed Faubert out to dinner at Grumpy Bear’s in Kennedy Meadows, California. Left side, front to back: Charlie Thorpe, Doug Wiser, Cheryl Strayed, Roger Carpenter; Right, front to back: Pete Charles, Meadow Ed Faubert, Tony Thorpe. Courtesy of Roger Carpenter
In 2014, McDonnell was in the front row beaming when the American Long Distance Hiking Association-West named Faubert “Trail Angel of the Year.” I was the emcee and I’d been asked to limit Faubert to a ten-minute acceptance speech. He came to the mic with six handwritten single-spaced pages. He glowed. I didn’t have the heart to cut him short.
Roger Carpenter, too, remained in Faubert’s lifelong circle of friends. One day, seventeen years after they first met, Faubert sent an email with the subject line: “Look what Cheryl did.” Faubert was so proud. The Wild book and movie validated his decades ministering to hikers.
The year 2015 marked the last Kickoff, and in 2016 after serving platefuls to multiple thousands of hikers, Faubert gave his last hiker feed. He let his driver’s license lapse as he became more physically limited. On McDonnell’s last visit, only weeks before he passed, the conversation remained the same. Animated, elfin voice: “Do you remember this hiker? Do you remember that hiker?”
Near the collage of hiker photos were framed awards for Faubert’s poetry, a nod to his old English degree. A poem he wrote in 2006 could stand as his eulogy. The floor is yours, Meadow Ed.
A scholar with a camp stove lectern,
A preacher with a church 2,560 miles long and two feet wide, ….
Last day! So of course I got lost. I headed out of camp after saying goodbye to the friends I had made the night before and just walked off into the woods.
Once I found my way back to trail, I hiked on toward civilization. Lake houses became more frequent and sweet-smelling day hikers were passing me coming from the other direction. A couple of hours later, I arrived at Echo Lake Chalet, put my pack down, and went inside to get a snow cone for breakfast. This was the end of Section K of the PCT. 65 miles total.
End of Trail
I was happy and exhausted. My trail angel, Madison (Buffer, PCT Class of 2023, just like me), that I had also met at Trail Skills College before the hike, picked me up and drove me to her house in South Lake Tahoe. She and her boyfriend Shawn (Sean?) pampered me and were a blast to hang out with. He likes Star Wars more than almost anyone I’ve ever met and we got along great.
COMFY bed
Unfortunately, I found out that I had apparently done this entire hike while infected with Covid.
I had started feeling kinda crappy from day one and just pushed through the miles anyway. The daytime wasn’t bad, but at night I would get a super stuffy nose and was definitely coughing the entire hike. I think I may have had fever that night after the 21 mile day.
But I figure I’ve had worse and proved to myself I can take on a solo hike for a week, sickness and all, and do ok. I’m pretty tired of carrying a bear can and would like to not do that on whatever section of the PCT I tackle next.
The next morning, they drove me to Harrah’s in Stateline to pick up the shuttle bus back up to the Reno airport where I met Rayna again to grab my suitcase and headed back to Texas. Great hike. 10/10, would do again.
I woke up sore, specifically my shoulders. Legs were actually fine. Now I was heading into Mordor for mosquitos, apparently. Also, Dick’s Pass, the highest pass I would cross on this hike (9000+ ft) was looming in the afternoon.
As I came out of mosquito hell, I started to get into the lakes section of the Desolation Wilderness and it was pretty spectacular.
Best water source of the whole hike
Dick’s Pass was a 1500 foot climb and was a bit daunting, but you just have to take it one step at a time. I did it in about an hour. I bonked pretty hard at the top, as I had waited to eat lunch, so my body was completely out of fuel, but the views were great.
Looking down on Dick’s Lake from whence I came
The entire trail down from Dick’s Pass was NOT my favorite. If you’re a fan of sharp rocks stabbing your feet though, have I got a trail for you!
God damn rocks
The rest of the day wound up and down past a couple of smaller lakes and then opened up to Aloha Lake (Lake Aloha? I’m not sure what the proper order is) where I would find my favorite campsite of the trip. Great neighbors, including two Sobo hikers that were continuing into the Sierra further south and also a couple and their friend, and their dog (Doug), who had hiked in from Echo Lake to basecamp and day hike. Fantastic swim in Aloha Lake to end the night.